My Honda CX500 Build (1982) – Every Part, Every Decision
If you've followed my content for a while, you've probably seen this bike more often than you'd like to admit. It's the motorcycle that shaped my style, taught me countless lessons, and became the foundation of everything I build today.
A lot of people ask me what parts I used, what I would recommend, and how I approached the build. This isn't meant to be the ultimate CX500 guide—it's simply the story of my bike, the decisions behind it, and a few things I'd definitely do again.
The Bike
• Model: Honda CX500
• Year: 1982
• Mileage when purchased: ~40,000 km
Finding the right bike was more important than finding the cheapest one.
I specifically looked for a motorcycle with reasonable mileage, solid maintenance history, and good mechanical condition. My advice is simple: buy a bike that already runs well. You'll spend your time making it beautiful instead of chasing mechanical problems for months.
Another thing worth considering: don't cut up a perfectly preserved original motorcycle. There will always be enthusiasts who appreciate an untouched classic. My CX wasn't perfect anymore—it was probably a solid 3/3- condition. Good enough to save, but also the perfect candidate for a custom build.
Why a Café Racer?
The café racer movement started in London long before modern sport bikes existed. Riders stripped unnecessary weight from their motorcycles, changed the riding position with lower handlebars, and built machines that handled better on the road.
They famously raced between cafés—most notably from the Ace Cafe—which is exactly where the name Café Racer comes from.
That philosophy inspired my entire build:
Less weight. Cleaner lines. Better riding.
Not just different for the sake of being different.
Seat
The bulky factory seat had to go.
I built a completely new seat base directly on the frame, shaped high-quality foam by hand, and then brought everything to a professional upholsterer.
One of my biggest recommendations:
Never underestimate professional upholstery.
A great seat can completely transform the look of a motorcycle.
Leather or synthetic?
Personally, I love real leather.
Over time it develops a beautiful patina that gives the bike more character every single year.
The downside is obvious: leather absorbs water. If your bike lives outside or you ride in all weather conditions, high-quality synthetic leather is simply the more practical option.
Paint
I prepared most parts myself by sanding and doing the groundwork, but I left the actual painting to a professional.
It's worth every cent.
The finish is simply cleaner, deeper and much more durable.
Color scheme
• Grey-green tank
• Matching front and rear fenders
• Gloss black wheels
I actually painted one wheel myself. The second one arrived later and eventually went straight to the painter—which honestly resulted in the better finish.
Powder Coating
Parts like the triple clamps, valve covers and other components were powder coated instead of painted.
Powder coating gives a tougher finish, handles daily use much better and simply looks fantastic.
Highly recommended.
Headlight
I chose a classic 7-inch headlight because larger headlights simply suit vintage motorcycles.
Instead of mounting it with traditional side brackets, I fabricated a custom lower mount attached to the lower triple clamp.
That allowed the headlight to sit much closer to the frame, making the entire front end cleaner and more compact.
The wiring was another huge project.
Rather than hiding all connectors inside the headlight housing like Honda originally did, I relocated everything underneath the fuel tank.
Pro Tip
The cleaner your wiring is, the cleaner the entire motorcycle feels.
Most people won't notice why your bike looks better.
They'll just notice that it does.
Cockpit
For the controls I chose Motogadget components.
• Motogadget speedometer
• Motogadget grips
• Motogadget bar-end indicators
Simple, beautifully engineered and incredibly reliable.
Sometimes paying once is cheaper than buying twice.
Front End
I upgraded to braided stainless steel brake lines.
On older motorcycles, this makes a surprisingly big difference in brake feel and confidence.
I also lowered the front slightly by sliding the forks upward through the triple clamps.
Nothing extreme—just enough to give the bike a slightly sportier stance and quicker steering.
Tires
I run Bridgestone Battlax BT46 tires:
• Front: 100/90-19
• Rear: 130/90-16
The rear wheel remains the original CX500 size.
The BT46 offers excellent grip while maintaining the classic appearance I wanted.
Electronics & Battery
One of my main goals was opening up the frame triangle.
To achieve that:
• I built a custom electronics box underneath the seat.
• The battery was relocated underneath the engine.
This required removing the original collector box underneath the bike.
That led to another modification...
Exhaust
Since the collector had to disappear, I fabricated new connecting pipes with roughly a 15° bend before installing the silencers.
Unfortunately, the universal mufflers I used from Louis are no longer available.
Pro Tip
Avoid simple absorption mufflers with perforated cores.
They're often unnecessarily loud and become tiring during longer rides.
Instead, choose reflection-style mufflers with internal chambers.
They produce a deep, rich V-twin-like sound without becoming harsh or obnoxious.
It's loud enough to be exciting—but refined enough to enjoy for hours.
To this day it's probably my favorite part of the entire motorcycle.
Intake
I installed open DNA air filters.
For my carburetors I ended up with:
• 90 pilot jets
• 120 main jets
This setup runs slightly rich, but that's something I'm perfectly happy with.
I'd rather have an engine running a touch rich than dangerously lean.
Throttle response is smooth, the bike pulls cleanly through the rev range, and I've never experienced any flat spots.
Rear Light
The rear uses a compact Bates-style taillight.
Simple.
Classic.
Exactly what the bike needed.
Exhaust Wrap
I also wrapped the headers with exhaust tape.
Pro Tip
Always soak the wrap in water before installing it.
When securing the stainless steel locking ties, roll them tight with needle-nose pliers instead of simply pulling them.
The installation becomes much cleaner and stays tight over time.
Final Thoughts
This build was never about creating the most extreme café racer.
It was about creating a motorcycle that feels balanced.
Classic without feeling outdated.
Custom without trying too hard.
Beautiful enough to admire in the garage, but reliable enough to ride every chance I get.
If you're planning your own CX500 build, I hope some of these ideas help.
And if you found your way here through my videos, thanks for following the journey.
Feel free to explore the shop while you're here, everything I create is inspired by the same philosophy that shaped this motorcycle.
See you on the road.
